Taping a tapered joint is quite easy. The non-tapered joints require more care, since the thickness of the first coat and tape form a bump which needs to be hidden Gradually draw the second and third coats out widely to obscure that rise. Of course, the thinner that first coat can be made, the easier you can hide the taped joint. But, problems may arise if you leave the mud bed too thin. Bubbled tape should be immediately pulled off and retaped.
If the tape is already partially dry and the bubbling limited to a few spots, cut them out with a utility knife and retape those sections. Another common problem is smoothing the third coat. Frequently hard bits of dried mud or grit get on your knife and leave ridges and grooves in the finish surface. Remove the embedded lumps with your finger and resmooth.
Prevent the problem by cleaning your mud pan before refilling it, and throw away extra mud rather than returning it to the pail. Apply three coats of mud to screw and nail dimples as well at to the metal corner bead. The comer head not only withstands the inevitable bumps every corner receives.
If a corner bead looks as if it requires a lot of mud, use the quick-set compound for the first coat to avoid shrinkage. Why three coats? The mud shrinks as it dries, so it takes three layers to fill up the depressions to make the surface flat.
In addition, each coat can be made increasingly smoother. Gypsum Plus 3, for example. They shrink less. Purchase it pre-mixed in those 5 gallon plastic pails. Use paper tape for the joints.
Fiberglass tape may also be used, but it requires a special hardening joint compound for adequate bonding. Since it does not come pre-mixed and it sets hardens rather quickly, you can only mix a little at a time.
So using it may not be worth the trouble except, perhaps, for smaller projects. Unfortunately, it sets very hard. Drywall dust seems to infiltrate everything, so seal up doorways with plastic and masking tape, wear a dust mask, and put a fan in a window to draw the dust outside.
Actually, when mudded carefully the sanding will only be cursory, just to knock off a few lumps and feather some edges. Be careful not to rough up the paper. If you plan to texture, skip the third coat and sanding, since the texture will hide any irregularities.
Then put your work to the test. Prime with a good primer and examine the wall for imperfections. If you find some, mud them, sand lightly, and reprime. Cover your walls quickly and inexpensively with drywall. Drywall is Almost Goof-Proof Drywall is easy to work with : it comes in large sheets, cuts with a utility knife and nails or screws directly to the framing. Getting Started All in all, drywall is pretty simple stuff , just a compressed bed of gypsum with heavy paper glued to both sides.
Use cement-base backer board for very wet areas. Hanging Drywall Successfully hanging drywall requires a curious combination of geometric precision and brute strength.
Mark pipe locations to make sure you won't nail them. And finally, adjust the electrical box depth to fit the drywall thickness. Hanging drywall with nails or screws?
But before you make that first cut, decide which fastening system to use — nails or screws. Drywall Cutting Technique Lay out the desired drywall size with your measuring tape.
Mark both edges of the front and snap a chalk line for a guide. Score the paper with a sharp utility knife. You can use a straightedge to guide the cut as well. Tap the backside at the scored line with your knee to break.
Slice the paper on the backside with a utility knife. Drywall hanging procedures Keep in mind this illustration of drywall fastening techniques, as I will refer to it later. Measure first ceiling panel length to center of joist. Hang panels perpendicular to framing.
Don't worry, there are only a few extra steps to successfully installing drywall by yourself. With proper preparation and some strategically-placed wood blocks, you can effectively complete this job by yourself. Log in Social login does not work in incognito and private browsers. Please log in with your username or email to continue. No account yet? Create an account. Edit this Article.
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Measure the length, width, and height of the ceiling and walls. Use a tape measure and take the length and width for the ceiling. Then take the length and height of each wall. Contractors often write their measurements directly on wall studs or drywall sheets so they always know the location of their measurements. Consider following this practice so you don't lose track. Calculate the square footage of the area you're drywalling. This calculation tells you how many drywall sheets to buy. The formula for square feet or meters is length x width.
Using this formula, calculate the square footage of each wall and the ceiling separately. For instance, if you measured 84 in cm , that is 7 ft 2.
Average drywall sheets are 8 ft 2. After calculating the square footage of the ceiling and each wall, divide each number by This will tell you how many drywall sheets you need for each section. So if your ceiling is 8 ft 2. Buy a few more sheets than you need to ensure you have enough if you make any mistakes.
Remove all ceiling and wall fixtures if applicable. Some ceilings have light or smoke detector sockets installed, and walls may have electrical outlets or switches. Use a screwdriver and carefully unscrew these fixtures. Store them safely so you can reinstall them later. To be extra safe, turn off the circuits for this room in your breaker board.
Remember to tuck away all wires that are sticking out after you remove these fixtures. Tucking them behind the rafters in the ceiling or wall studs will keep them out of the way of any screws when you start installing the drywall. Measure and mark down the distance from the wall to all ceiling fixtures. This is so you can cut holes where light fixtures are. Use a grid pattern to get their exact location. Measure the distance from the closest wall to the center of the fixture.
Then measure the distance from the next closest wall to the center as well. Write this measurement down so you remember after you install the drywall. If you complete the installation and then make a mistake while cutting, you might have to redo the whole job.
Method 2. Drill a wood block 2 in 5. Take a wood block about the length of the wall you're working on. Press this block 2 in 5. If your wood is 2 in 5. If you don't have a wood block long enough, use a smaller piece and move it around as you need. Drill a 1 ft 0.
This is another trick for doing this job alone. Measure 4 feet 1. At this point, use a 5 in 13 cm screw and screw the wood block to the ceiling rafter. This should allow the block to rotate in all directions.
You can install as many of these blocks as you need. Whenever you need some extra support, drill one down and rotate it so the drywall rests on the block. After covering the ceiling with drywall, you will attach the top sheets of drywall to the wall.
When installing drywall that is horizontally-oriented, start with the top and work your way down. The idea is to make your cut side facing the floor, where it will be later covered up with baseboards. Mark the locations of the wall studs on the edges of the ceiling drywall with a pencil.
This will make it easier to find the stud centers when driving screws into the wall panels. Once the stud locations have been marked, you will use a drywall lifter to place panels into position.
When installing top panels on a wall, rest the panel on screws driven temporarily into the studs about 50 inches below the ceiling. Use a drywall lifter to place the panel into place on the screws. Then quickly grab your screw gun or drill in one hand while sliding the panel up with your other hand and shoulder. Drive a screw at the bottom of the panel into a center stud, then work your way out and up the panel.
Continue to lift each panel into place on the screws. Continue to grab your drill in one hand while sliding the panel into position with your other hand and shoulder. Bottom panels should fit snugly against the top panels. Use your drywall square to cut pieces to fit. Rent or create a DIY drywall lift. Make two cheap and easy braces by attaching a 4-foot-long piece of 2-by-4 lumber to a full-length piece of a 2-by-4 "leg.
Make two of them, but an assistant will be needed to maneuver the drywall lift. Actively scan device characteristics for identification. Use precise geolocation data. Select personalised content. Create a personalised content profile. Measure ad performance. Select basic ads. Create a personalised ads profile. Select personalised ads. Apply market research to generate audience insights.
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