Learn how to repair a window channel, make a patch panel, chrome plate fiberglass parts and more in the Exterior Category. Get your welder prepped and ready, cause your'e gonna need it!
Fabricate your own custom door handles, bumpers, consoles and more with this how to from the Fabrication Category. One of the easiest ways to make more power in your ride is lowering the operating temperature in your engine.
Bring back your starter, or upgrade that GM points distributor the correct way without the hassle in the Ignition Category. You're going to spend a lot of time inside your ride.
Make sure your interior is in top shape without breaking the bank! It seems either they crack at the welds or they just fit poorly and leave much to be desired when fitting the rest of the exhaust. Both of these tend to either leak right out of the gate or after a short period of time. Forget even trying to run an old used header! I decided to show my solution that has solved my header leak issues over the years. I decided to build the exhaust from the headers and get it down under the truck where they could easily build the rest of the system back on the lift.
These headers had a 3 bolt flange and I started by using a reciprocating saw to cut the flange off. I had to make the cut extremely close to the flange itself as the collectors for the headers were only a few inches from the flange and I needed space to slip the end of the flex joint into the header. Above are the flex joints that I like to use.
They have a stainless mesh flex section that gives you a lot of flex for engine movement. For strength I decided to slip the flex joint inside the header.
If you have an exhaust spreader handy you can flare the end of the header, but in my case I was working late at night and mine seems to have walked off! I decided to keep working and did an ultra basic method of flaring the metal with a crescent or adjustable wrench. I slowly worked my way around the edge until I had a large enough flare I could slip the flex joint into.
Once I had the ends flared out I slipped the flex joint I had to use a rubber mallet as the slip joint should be a tight fit into the header and used a hammer to tap the metal tight all the way around the new flex joint.
With everything sitting how I wanted I put a single tack weld to join the two pieces. I then trued the joint up again it will tend to move a little from the heat of the first weld and put a second tack weld degrees from the first. With the flex joints secured I could work my around the union and weld it up fully. With a MIG you can burn right through the coating no problem. With the flex joints welded I bolted the headers back on and used TIG wire to make templates of how I needed the short pieces of pipe to come out of each flex joint to get the exhaust down next to the frame and under the cab.
I had the local shop bend me up two pipes to match and I fit and positioned them at the correct angle. I pulled them back off and fully welded those to the flex joints. I have used it before with mixed results. Once again the hose will not cause the P to set. That said the best way I know to check for exhaust leaks is to hold a rag over the tail pipe while the engine is running and listen for leaks in the exhaust system, this works best with 2 people, one to block the exhaust and the other to listen for leaks.
You could have a clogged cat like Eric said. When I do the soapy water, what percent of soap and any kind of soap is ok? Dish liquid or detergent? You have to realize that all an engine is an air pump. Clean the affected area s so you can verify the source of the leak. Thread Tools. All times are GMT The time now is PM. User Name. Remember Me? Garage Garage. Manage My Garage. Browse by Username.
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